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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.